THE MONUMENTS OF THE NATURE

About the three natural lakes in Macedonia and the problems with their protection

1. Ohrid Lake - It is located at southwest part of the Republic of Macedonia, at an elevation of 695 m a.s.l.. From the total area of 348,8 km2, 229,9 km2 are in the territory of the Republic of Macedonia. The Ohrid valley, where the lake is situated, has been formed by tectonic way during the middle Pliocene.

The deepest part (287 m) is located at Peshtani valley. The Ohrid Lake is known as the deepest lake on Balkan Peninsula.
The lake is typical sub-tropic with largest average monthly temperature of 25.7o C. The transparency of the water is high - 21 m, and the color is marine blue.

Another characteristic of the lake is the low productivity of the phytoplancton, limited by the low concentration of phosphates and nitrates in the water.

The macrophytic vegetation of the Ohrid Lake is spread till the depth of 9-11 m, rarely down to 20 m. It is distributed zonally, in three belts: first - reed belt, second - Potamogeton belt and third - Chara belt which is penetrating the deepest. Animal component is connected to all these vegetation belts. On the bare vertical cliffs in the shallow shore small number of snails and planarian are distributed. Colonies of endemic sponge Spongilla stankoviki, larvae of Neuroptera and water moths, shells - Dreissensia, dragonfly larvae and many others are distributed deeper. Among the total number of snail spices, 40 of them are settled in the shallow shore. Excluding the microscopic forms, the number of individuals is about 3000-12.000, rear 30.000 ind. per square m.

In the sub-littoral zone (it is called the zone of dead shells), which is semi-dark, macrophytic vegetation is absent, but the sandy bottom and the layer of dead Dreissensia-shells are covered by algae. The relict species: Ochridospongia rotunda, Archopistomum macedonicus, Neodendrocellum lychnidicum, Peloscolex stankoviki, Ochridocyclops arndti, Asselus arnautoviki and Pyrgula polinskii, fish species - Acantholingua ochridanus and others are distributed in this zone.

Profundal zone is occupying the biggest part of the lake's bottom (4/5) and is characterised by total darkens and absence of plants. Eury-bionts are existing in this part, relict and cave forms among, which more important are: Hyodrilus ochridanus, Fonlicola ochridanus, Pyrgula wagneri, P. Stankovici, P. Vaicaliformis, Horatia brusinae, Archopistomum macedonicum, Ohridia bathybia, Niphargus foreli ochridanus and others.

The life of the lake in the pelagic zone is quite heterogeneous; the species from green algae and diatoms being dominant. The biggest part of the algal population is inhabiting the upper, warmer part of the pelagic zone (down to 50 m).

The animal component of the plankton community is characterised by the poor species composition and monotony throughout the whole year. Only two species are endemic among the zoo-plankton (Archodiaptomus steindachneri and Cyclops ochridanus). Among all zoo-plankton species, the most abundant are Copepoda, larvae of Draissensia, Rotatoria and Cladocera.

Due to the geographic isolation and favourable hydrographic conditions, 146 endemic species are preserved and live in Ohrid Lake. Some of them are living fossils and they are remaining unchanged from Tertiary up to now - endemic sponge, relict snail species (more than 27) among which 86% are endemic, several relict species of worms, Ohrid trout (Salmo letnica), belvica (Acantolingua ochridana) and other endemic fish species. There are numerous relict algal species; among which diatoms are the most numerous, as well. Due to these retinas of Ohrid Lake with natural values, it was listed in 1979 in the World Heritage List, and in 1980, due to the important historic-cultural values of the broader territory, this region was nominated as Ohrid natural and historic-cultural region.

According to the data for the last 10 years, the fish catch from Ohrid lake amounts from 165 tones (in 1992) up to 302 tones (in 1988) or average about 225 tones. The biggest part of the catch is composed by Ohrid trout, belvica and plashica.

According to the data of Spirkovski and Talevski (1992) a special change of the age and sex structure of the Ohrid trout population as well as the reduction of its density.

The main reasons for this are the adverse influence of waste water which are causing destroying of natural fish breeding places and decreasing of organisms abundance upon which the autochtonous fish species are feeding, and especially the intensive and unrational fishing -beyond the frame of the biological optimum. The later is especially the case on the Albanian side of the 'lake. Another unfavourable moment is the presence of several introduced allochtonous fish species, such are: gambusia, carassius, rainbow trout and alosa which are demonstrating an adverse effect on the endemic fish fauna of the lake through the competative relations.

The increasing urbanization of the Ohrid coast and unsolved problems with industrial waste waters represent the real danger for the diversity of the Ohrid lake life. A large number of bental life forms from Ohrid lake are living evidences for the originating of the lake as well as for the evolutionary development of fresh-water fauna. Many answers to unsolved questions for the evolution of the life and natural lakes are kept and hidden in these species.

Unsolved question for solid communal waste disposal is big problem as well. lt is disposed presently near the lake, (Studenchishte swamp, river Cherava and close to the coastal settlements), although the location for depony is existing according to the regional plan for the town of Ohrid. The same holds for town of Struga.

We should mention in this occasion that industrial waste waters are not collected by the existing collector system, but the communal waste and fecal waters solely. Chromic and other acids, cyanides, bases, copper wastes and other toxic materials were registered in the industrial waste waters. Among the biggest polluters are waste waters of the factories "Heroj Toza, Dragovikj" and "Ezerka" from Ohrid.

The influence of the waste water of numerous tourist objects, which are not connected to the existing collector system, is adverse as well. The use of fertilizers and herbicides that are infiltrating in the lake basin cause the pollution and eutrophication of the lake also.

The exploitation of the mineral resources (sand, gravel) from the lake coast is quite often as well. .

The river Sateska, which bed was turned into the lake few decades ago, has a very big influence on the eutrophication of the lake. It is carrying 0.5-1400 tones per day of suspended matters into the lake. The last is contributing to disturbance of some basic ecological conditions for the reproduction of some endemic fish races.

The large number of collective buildings, summer cottages next to the lake coast are the additional load, but the biggest adverse effect on the natural features of this ecosystem will be caused by the realisation of the Detailed Urban Plan on the coastal line from Studenchishta to Kaneo. It is anticipating undertakings that are in the contrast with the decisions of our State in the Nomination File of Ohrid Lake in which is stated that at list 60% of the coastal zone will be protected from the urbanisation.

Absence of care for the lake is obvious in the case of establishing of the road in the close vicinity of the St. Naum springs, as well as the direct releasing of waste water from the neighboring tourist objects.

Considering the importance of these natural archives, taking into consideration the adverse influence of human activities, their special protection is emerging as an imperative. It can be realised through previous investigations that would be the base for establishing of a proper strategy for their protection. .

Since establishing of Hydro-biological Institute in Ohrid in 1934, the Ohrid Lake is stocked with fish by the nursed progeny of Ohrid trout. Up to know the lake is stocked with 430 millions fish young's. This is enabled by the breeding installations in the Institute, which capacity is 22 millions grains of roe per year. The spawning is organised in the way that enables natural reproduction of Ohrid trout during the fishing closed season.

In 1965 by construction of dam on the river Crni Drim (the Ohrid Lake effluent), the natural rout of eel (Angr~lla angrcilla) was interrupted, by which the natural migration in and out of the lake was disabled. Presently Ohrid lake is artificially stocked by the eel.

2. Prespa Lake - The Lake is situated at the outermost southwest part of The Republic of Macedonia, on the junction of three borders between Macedonia, Greece and Albania. It is lying in the tectonic valley between the mountains Baba on the east, Galichica and Petrina Planina on the west and northwest and Suva Gora on the south. The lake occupies an area of 274 km2, 176,8 km2 of what belongs to Macedonia. The level of the lake is at au elevation of 853 m a.s.l. The Prespa Lake, same as Ohrid Lake, was created in Pliocene by tectonic activities. The deepest part of the lake is 54 m deep.

From the phytocoenological point of view, the presence of endemic plant community Lemneto-Spirodeletum polyrrhize aldrovandetosum is the most important.

Considering the fauna, the most important is fish fauna which is composed of 80% endemic species.

The level of the lake has dropped considerably during the last 10 years, which is due to the same reasons noted for Dojran lake - unfavourable hydrological regime and overexploitation of the water by the bordering countries.

The problems of Prespa lake are identical with those of Ohrid lake, but in less extent with the exception of the mineral resources exploitation which is more intensive. Establishing a complete collector systems is a priority for the protection of Prespa lake because the existing one cannot meet the needs of the region.

Since 1994 the strict natural ornithological reserve EZERANI has been promoted with its inclusion on the world Ramsar list and thus, obligating Macedonia, as a full member of this Convention, for undertaking of all measures for protection of the region and through that, of the whole lake.

3. Dojran lake - It is the smallest tectonic lake in Macedonia. The lake is situated in the south-west part of the country and occupies an area of 43,1 km2. The western, larger part (27,3 km2) belongs to The Republic of Macedonia, while the eastern, smaller, part ( 15,8 km2) belongs to Greece. The lake level is at an elevation of 148 m a.s.l.. It is a shallow lake, the deepest part is only several meters.

The Dojran lake basin was created during the young Pliocene, while the lake in Pleistocene. Actually, the Dojran lake is relict reminder of former Pleistocene Peon lake which was occupying an area of about 127 km2.

The Dojran lake is eutrophic lake, rich on phyto- and zoo-plankton. The blue-green algae (Cyanophyta) are the most abundant in the phyto-plankton. During August and September their biomass is so big, that the whole lake surface is covered by water bloom. Zoo-plankton is represented by 23 Crustacean and several shell species. Due to the high plankton production, Dojran lake is rich with fish species (about 15). Annual catch is about 500.000 kg i.e. I50 kg per ha. This lake is very famous because of the specific way of fishing in "mandri" with the aid of birds. The fish fauna iu Dojran lake is represented with 15 species, four of them being endemic. The presence of freshwater crab (Potamon ibericum) is very significant.

The level of Dojran lake has dropped considerably during the last 10 years. Individual lake zones and groups of species are endangered. Birds were threatened first due to drying up of the reed belt which was the most important nesting place for birds. The littoral zone has undergone the large changes and many algal species, endemic for the lake have vanished. The main reason for these disappearances was extraordinary dry years and over-exploitation of the water for irrigation from both the Macedonian and Greek sides.

Owing to its dimensions, Dojran lake is more susceptible to any ecological changes. Unfortunately, all adverse influences which were mentioned for the Ohrid lake are present in this lake as well, thus, undertaking the same measures for protection is priority, including extension of the collector system and care for its maintenance and regular functioning.

Measures for protection of the three natural lakes in Macedonia

In order to protect the three natural lakes in Macedonia, the following steps should be undertaken:

1. Respecting the existing Laws for protection of these lakes (considering the urbanization, communal waste, coastal zone, exploitation of mineral resources etc.).
2. Respecting the obligations toward UNESCO considering Ohrid Lake.
3. Respecting the obligations of the Ramsar Convention considering Prespa Lake or the EZERANI reserve.
4. Establishing of the special bodies (Council for Protection of the Lakes) for carrying out our country's obligations toward corresponding international organizations as well as the country's own legislation.
5. Improvement of the existing collector systems and care for their correct functioning.
6. Elaborating the feasibility study for re-establishing the natural migration route of the eel (Anguilla anguilla) back to Ohrid lake.

4. The Krushje cave - It is located near the village Zashle, Demir Hisar county.

5. The Slatina cave- It is located at the left bank of the river Slatinska Reka (Makedonski Brod county) at an elevation of 625 m a.s.l.

6. Kalnica - Paleonthological locality rich in vertebrate fossil bones belonging to Pikermian fauna. It is located in Kavadarci county and occupies an area of about 17 ha.

7. Prevalec - This paleonthological locality with the area of about 50 ha is located 4 km on southwest of Titov Veles. The locality represents the first discovery of mammal fossil bones - "pikermian fauna" in Macedonia. The paleonthological find was discovered accidentally by the German researcher Jugman in 1917 during the World War One. The age of the fauna was determined as old Pliocene and numerous mammal genera and species were determined, included are: monkeys, hipparions, giraffes, antelopes, gazelles, deer, mastodons, rhinoceroses wild boars, hyenas etc. Among other species, Mesopithecus pentelici, Hipparion gracile, Tragoceras amaltheus etc. were discovered.

8. Demir Kapija - This is the longest gorge of the river Vardar (19 km). It is passing through limestone and eruptive rocks that are dividing Tikvesh valley on the northwest and Gevgelija-Valandovo valley on the southeast. The entrance in the gorge is especially impressive canyon, 0,9 km in length, with different carstic shapes on its slopes - caves (9): the longest is Bela Voda cave (955 m) crevices, cuttings with steep cliffs etc.

The Demir Kapija gorge is among the richest ornithological reserves in Europe. The rare birds of pray include: griffin vulture (Gyps fulvus), Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus), golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), shot-toed eagle (Circaetus gallicus), long-legged buzzard (Buteo rufinus), and different falcons (Falco peregrinus, Falco naumanni). Other rare and scientifically important bird species are also present in this area. In the Demir Kapija gorge, important mammal, reptile, and insect species are present as well as rare and endemic plant species (Caladonia macedonica, Lilium: heldreichii, Lilium martagon, Kitaibelia vitifolia etc.).

9. Manastir - It is located in the locality "Pulikj" near village Manastir - Mariovo region. It represents an important paleonthological find of vertebrate fossils and macro-flora (Castana ataria, Quercus pseudocactanea, Fagus, Populus, Acer etc.) in volcanogenic- sediment series together with the layer of diatomaceous earth.

10. The cave Mlechnik - It is located on Karaorman mountain, on the slopes faced toward Struga valley, at an elevation of 980 m a.s.l.. It lays under the steep slopes of Mlechnik crest more exactly. The cave is composed of two halls connected by a small hole. In the first hall, at the left side of the entrance, several beautiful columns are present. While on the bottom right side, massive stalagmite are rising next to the entrance to the second hall. Specific types of fauna are living in the cave.

11. Trubarevo - ex situ

12. Karshi Bavchi - It is located on the slopes of Baba hill near Kratovo and represents an interesting formation of volcanic rocks. There are two stems of Pinus silvestris growing at this locality. According to their age and dimensions they are unique in Macedonia.

13. Markovi Kuli - Massive rocks called Markovi Kuli are located in the central part of Macedonia, north of the town of Prilep. They are composed of numerous small denudation shapes dated from the Precambrian age. Their composition is of granite, with shapes representing relief sculptures (peaks, earth pillars, columns, plaques, splieres etc.). The height of separate massifs is over 1000 m.

From the floristic point of view, the presence of endemic plants is important: Asplenium macedonicum Kummerle, Verbascum adenanthum Bornm., Centaurea karamani O. & E. Beher et Wad, Moehringia minutiflora Bornm. and Silene viscariopsis Bornm.. Among the relict plant species, the presence of Isoetes phrygia Boiss. is worth noting.

14. The cave Ubavica (The Beauty) - This cave is the most beautiful, the most attractive, and the richest cave among all caves discovered up to now in Macedonia. It is located on the Bukovikj mountain (Bistra), next to the abandoned road Gostivar-Makedonski Brod. The cave is extremely rich with cave ornaments of various colours, which is a rare phenomenon that takes place during the creation of underground karst shapes. There is an underground water-flow flowing through the cave, sinking into the earth in one of its corridors and appearing out of it as a karst spring. A special beauty of the cave is the "waterfall hall" which is situated at the end of the main corridor (the part of its length, already studied, is 920 m).

The investigation of the cave fauna resulted in the registration of the endemic species Centhophies bukoviki (Karaman 1970).

15. Ostrovo - The locality "Ostrovo" near Trubarevo is a remainder of the former Katlanovo swamp which was meliorated in 1965. This area is protected in order to maintain this site where a large number of singing birds are staying. It represents the only resting place for migratory birds in the area surrounding Skopje.

16. Duvalo - The object is active post-volcanic appearance, located close to the village Kosel near Ohrid. It is very small crater with diameter of 0,5 m and 30 cm depth, remainder of former volcanic activity. COZ (98,06%) and HZS (0,38%) are fuming out of the crater.

17. Karaslari - That is paleonthological locality located about 3 km on southeast of Titov Veles, near the village Karaslari. The fossil find was discovered in 1973 during the construction of the Titov Veles - Gevgelija highway. According to the discovered fossil mammals (horses, gazelles, giraffes, wild boars, dogs etc.), this locality can be listed among the most known paleonthological finds in the world. The protected area occupies 70 ha.

18. Kale Banjichko - It is paleonthological locality, occupying an area of 100 ha, located near village Banjica, Titov Veles county. The locality represents open geological profile at an elevation of 840 m a.s.l.. It is composed of sediment rock's layers containing characteristic and divers fossil brachiopod, orbitoides, W ell, ammonite etc. fauna.

19. Koleshinski vodopad (Koleshino waterfall) - This waterfall is located on the north slopes of Belasica mountain, in the lower flow of the river Baba, at an elevation of 450 m a.s.l.. It is tectonic by origin, created in the granite rocks. The water is falling from 13,80 m height. Above this waterfall at about 100 m distance, several other waterfalls are presented, distributed in the line, with 2-4 m height.

20. Zvegor - It is located on the northeast of the village Zvegor at the locality called "Ilin Kamen" - Delchevo County. The protected area occupies an area of 75 ha. It represent the characteristic geological profile, an, example for the processes which have been carried out during different geological periods.

21. Konopishte - Near the village Konopishte, 1,5 km on the south of Kavadarci, very interesting geomorphological object is present - natural appearance of earth columns (earth pyramids). They are extraordinary interesting and very rare forms of intensive soil erosion. The locality occupies an area of 75 ha. The object is located in a short dry stream on the right side of the river Boshava, at an elevation of 740 m a.s.l.. It is the witness of the historic-geological processes, characteristic for this region and broader, and especially for the complex volcanic activity of the Kozhuv Mountain (Pliocene and Pleistocene).

22. Murite - It is located at the locality called "Murite" on Maleshevo Mountains, at an elevation of 1200-1400 m a.s.l.. The object represent the mixed forest stand composed of fir (Abies alba), beech (Fagus moesiaca), Pinus silvestris and spruce (Picea sxcelsa). The presence of 4 tree species on the relatively small area was the most important point for recognising of this object as a protected area, as well as the fact that spruce is here at its the most southern and the most eastern border of its areal.

23. Konjska Reka - The stand of "naked man" (Arbutus andrachne) is under protection. It is located along the flow of the river Konjska Reka at an elevation of 300 m a.s.l., about 3 km far on the northwest of the village Gornichet, Gevgelija County.

24. Skopska tvrdina (Skopje fortress) - At the west side of the Skopje fortress, the paleontological locality is located with the find of preserved invertebrate and vertebrate fossil fauna with the special geological-paleonthological characteristics. It occupies an area of 6750 m2.

25. Vevchanski izvori (Vevchani springs) - They represent pseudoperiodic siphon springs which are rare in Macedonia. They are located on the east slopes of Jablanica mountain near the village Vevchani, at an elevation of 900 m a.s.l. The main spring is situated in the hole of a cave and during the summer months it is dried up. Located about 10 m lower are several constant springs which interact with the main spring by an underground connection. The quantity of water coming forth during the humid period of the year is about 1500 ls-1.

26. Mokrino - The object is located on the north slopes of Belasica mountain, near the village Mokrino. It represents a well preserved stand of very old plane (Platanus orientalis) stems with the special habitues characteristics concerning the dimensions.

27. Mokrievo - It is located on the Belasica mountain at the locality called "Volovarnik" on the south-east of the village Mokrievo. This area is valuable because of the beech stand at this locality which bares marks of a real virgin forest.

28. Katlanovska Banja (Katianovo Spa) - This area is located 27 km to the south of Skopje, at the place where the river Pchinja is passing through Katlanovo hill and creating a short but very beautiful gorge. The visible tectonic fissure which is about 350 m long, makes this monument of nature particularly important. Mineral water springs containing water rich in gasses are present at many places. The water is coming forth in periodical pulsing (fumaroles) and is of juvenile (volcanic) origin. The preserved connection between thermal water and tectonic fissure is of special importance in respect to the Katlanovo Spa; a rarity not only in the Balkan Peninsula, but also in the whole of Europe.

29. Matka canyon - The locality, 15 km south-west of Skopje, represents a gorge break-through along the lower flow of the river Treska. Owing to the fact that the gorge is one of the biggest refugium centres from the glaciation period, a large number of relict and endemic plant and animal species are present there.

Twenty percent of 1000 plant species are endemic or relict.

Among the tertiary relicts, some of the more important are: Viola kosanini and Ramonda nathaliae. At locality of Matka two new spider species (Macedoniella karamani Drenski and Mesiotelus cypris skopjensis Drenski) and five pseudoscorpions (Chithorzius tenuickelatus, Ch. troglobius, Ephipiosthonius tulierculatus, E. microtuberculatus, Neochtthonius karamanianus and Artemnus balcanicus) have been discovered. One hundred and nineteen day-butterfly species and 140 night-butterfly species have been registered in the canyon. In the Matka canyon 77 Microlepidoptera species, Balkan endemites are present and 18 more have been described as new for the science.